A Good Sport

I started my first professional job about two weeks after I graduated from college. I was so excited to get into the world, make some money, and start my "real" life. Moron. If I'd only known then what I know now, I would have spent the entire summer at my parents' house, sleeping till noon and having my dad make me dinner every night. More than a decade later, I have a true appreciation for time off - especially when that comes in the form of playing hooky for the day.

Skipping work is just what Paul and I did last Monday. We thought that we'd make a day of it and head down to the waterfront, have a late lunch, and take in the Shepard Fairey exhibit at the ICA. When looking for a hooky-worthy lunch in the Fort Point neighborhood, there is only one destination - Sportello, one of the newest stars in Barbara Lynch's restaurant constellation. Lynch must feel that the formerly-all-but-deserted Fort Point area is pretty darn special - Sportello is only one of three establishments that she is now running there. The others include Drink, a sleek, modernist cocktail bar and 9 at Home, her catering business that she relocated.

Sportello is italian for "counter service" and, according to the restaurant's website, it's "a modern interpretation of the classic lunch counter." Well, if a lunch counter can turn out dense, handmade pastas, an exquisite, hand-picked wine list, and desserts worthy of a magazine cover, than, sure, this is a lunch counter. Sportello's design and atmosphere is pretty much just what you'd expect - a smallish room, with a white counter that snakes through the space, a long open kitchen, and a cooler in the back with takeout specialties and a case full of chocolates and dessert. Typical of Lynch's style, the restaurant is clean and bright, and almost austere. We arrived on the late side and we were able to snag stools at a corner, which made for easier conversation. While sitting at the counter was totally appropriate for lunch, I am not sure how it would translate for dinner - definitely not a good choice for a first date, that's for certain.

While we scanned the menu / paper place mat (in quintessential lunch counter style), I sipped a glass of superb Italian red whose name - regrettably - I can't recall. At lunch, there are only three varietals of red and three whites available by the glass. Though the list is concise, the server was very helpful in choosing something that matched my request. While choosing our meals, we were also treated to fresh, chewy bread served with a small pot of semi-sweet ricotta sprinkled with sea salt and a drizzle of honey, dotted with golden raisins. It was an unexpected pairing and quite tasty.

Out first was a large bowl of the spicy tomato soup with caraway grilled cheese. While I didn't find the soup remotely spicy, it was divinely creamy and smooth, with bright tomato flavor. However, the star was the sandwich served on the side - unbelievably thin slices of long Italian bread with a delicate filling of sharp cheese, grilled to crispy perfection. It was so good, I wanted to figure out how to fashion it into a spoon to scoop up the soup. For our entrees, Paul ordered a pressed sandwich with prosciutto, Gruyere, and a sweet-tangy pepper relish. The sandwich was fairly standard, but the relish gave it a unique pop of flavor. I ordered the rabbit with green olives, served over homemade strozzapreti pasta - 'cause, you know, if you're playing hooky - go big or go home. It was spectacular. The rabbit was light and meaty, nicely balanced with the briny olives. The pasta, bathed in a simple, broth-y sauce, was dense with the perfect al dente bite. And for $15, it was an absurd bargain. Did I mention that I am newly a big fan of lunch? It's a great way to go gourmet, but still watch your wallet!

Ok, the meal was great. I expected it to be great... I mean, it's Barbara Lynch, for goodness sakes. What I didn't anticipate was dessert. When you are skipping work for the day, you gotta get dessert, right? I ordered the caramel pudding cake, while Paul sampled a few chocolates from the dessert case. The chocolate was nice, but nothing remarkable. The pudding cake, however, was - hands down - one of the finest sweets that has ever met my mouth. The cake was moist and rich with an almost burnt sugar essence, topped with a drizzle of creme fraiche that kept it from being too cloyingly sweet. Sprinkled on top was salted toffee that finished the dish perfectly, balancing both the flavor and texture of the dish.

In the end, it turned out that the ICA is closed on Mondays and our day didn't quite come together the way we expected. But it didn't really matter... when you get to have lunch at Sportello, you have to consider it well-worth the vacation day.

I'd give Sportello, at 348 Congress Street in Boston, an A-. Remember, when you reach the pearly gates, you are never going to think to yourself, "I sure wish that I'd worked more." Take the day off. Treat yourself to lunch.

I feel like a lobster roll.

That was my husband's request when, last night, we discussed a venture out into the city for lunch today. Lobster roll, huh? I know just the place.

I've lived in Boston for just over ten years and, in that time, I've become more and more of a foodie. To my great pleasure, the city has kept up with my interest by adding more & more great restaurants than one girl can reasonably try - but I do my best. I even have a spreadsheet to help me keep track. Super nerdy, I know.

I'd just been making some updates to said spreadsheet when my crustacean-loving partner began making demands. There is, of course, an entry on my sheet for B&G Oysters in the South End. Having heard about their infamous lobster roll, I knew that would satisfy Paul's hankerings.

Now, having just claimed to be a major Boston foodie, I am about to admit something that shames me greatly. I have never eaten at No. 9 Park. Sigh. It's been on my "list" forever, I've just never actually managed to get there. So, the idea of having a little impromptu lunch at one of the places in uber-Boston-chef, Barbara Lynch's, growing empire, was very good indeed. Before making a final commitment, I warned Paul, "it's going to be kind of expensive... probably $20 for just the lobster roll." "No problem." Really? Great, let's go!

We headed out at about one o'clock for the quick trip to the South End. One fabulous thing about lunch in the city? The parking! We pulled easily into a metered spot just a block down Tremont from the restaurant. As we entered the subterranean little space, I noticed their great patio for al fresco dining. At nearly 100 degrees and high humidity, we'll save that for another day. On entering, the first thing I notice is the size of the restaurant - tiny! - with low ceilings. That's a lot coming from me, since I am 5'2". However, the cramped space is all in the name of a good cause - at least half of the floor plan is taken up by the exposed kitchen. I pretty much love any place where you get to be privy to watching the chefs cook. The decor is super serene and calming - all brown-gray tones with intricately patterned, wood-paneled walls on one end and glass-tiled walls on the other.

Despite already having passed the lunch rush by the time we arrived, we waited for a few moments at the host station and ended up with a table by the door. Aside from that, service was good - quick and knowledgeable, if not friendly. The first thing I notice when we are handed our menus is the price of the lobster roll - $25. I laugh out loud. Oh well, we're here now! The menu is limited, which is fine. We're here for the lobster, which means we are totally ready to order by the time the waiter comes to inquire about drinks.

Since we've come to place dedicated to a delicacy that neither Paul nor I actually eat (oysters), we order a few pieces of shrimp cocktail as a compulsory nod to the raw bar. The shrimp are excellent - gigantic and firm, served on this perfect bed of crushed ice. The cocktail sauce is tasty, though I would have preferred more horseradish. Paul likes a mild cocktail sauce, so he was quite content.

Just a few moments after finishing our shrimp, our entrees arrive. For Paul, the traditional lobster roll; for me, the lobster BLT. Now, before I go on here, I need to be forthcoming about two things. First, I know lobster pretty well. I went to college in Maine and I've spent a few summer weeks in one Maine seacoast town or another since I was thirteen. Secondly, I am a purist. Lobster needs a little melted butter - nothing more, nothing less. So I am not sure what possessed me to order a big pile of lobster only to fuss it up with bacon, semi-dried tomatoes, and a giant ciabatta bun.

As a BLT alone, the sandwich would have been an absolute standout - thick bacon, with sweet, smoky tomatoes, and soft, powdery bun - and it would have been a relative bargain at $13. The lobster got lost in the smokiness and bread-y-ness. Luckily, Paul and I did half-sies and I got to try a good portion of the traditional roll. It was delicious - just touched with a hint of mayo and sprinkle of chives. Definitely the way to go... though, still a lot to swallow (or a little, as the case may be) for more than twenty bucks.

I would also be remiss to not mention the sides that come with the sandwiches, as they were outstanding and beautifully plated. For me, homemade potato chips fresh from the fryer with lots of weird shapes, just the way you want them. Paul's lobster roll came with fries that were - there is no other word - perfect. Brown and crispy with a dusting of coarse Kosher salt and a little parsley. Yum! Both plates came with slightly sweet pickle chips and excellent coleslaw - super thin strips of cabbage with a vinegar dressing.

Overall, I'd give B&G Oysters (550 Tremont Street, Boston, MA 02118) a B+. Solid entrees with great attention to the sides in a pleasant setting and good service.

I am looking forward to my next outing to Toro on Tuesday! Who hasn't heard about that corn on the cob? I will be sure to report back.