Where Everybody Knows Your Name

Maybe it's that I live in Boston and some little part of me harbors a "Cheers" fantasy. I have a secret desire to go to the same restaurant enough times that I become a regular. The host greets me by name, the bartender starts making my drink when he sees me come in, the waiter lets me know that my favorite special is on the menu that night... Naturally, in my dream, this place is right in my neighborhood (not more than a walk on a warm summer night) and I get to know the other local regulars and, each time I go in, town gossip immediately ensues ("I know, did you see the new sign at the florist? So gaudy."). Here is the problem... Boston has become such a foodie town, there are hundreds of great places to eat and I can never quite justify eating at the same place again and again, when there are so many tempting options to try. However, I think that, if I was going to have such a place in my life, it would be Geoffrey's Cafe in Roslindale Village.

Geoffrey's is new to me, but it has a long-ish history in Boston and a loyal following of diners (if you don't believe me, Google it... I've never seen so many blogs, postings, consumer reviews of a neighborhood joint). The original cafe opened in 1990 and has made its home in the Back Bay and the South End, before finally landing in Rozzie Square. I am not quite sure what brought the owners here, but I feel lucky to have a such a chic little place in our own backyard. Apparently, I am not the only one that feels that way either. In my two visits to Geoffrey's - both on "quieter" nights, a Sunday and a Wednesday - the place has been packed.

Let's get one thing out of the way right up front - the food at Geoffrey's, while very reasonably priced, is only ok. However, the food is not really the charm of the place. It's a small restaurant with a bar area in the front and snug dining room in the back. The paint colors are earthy and retro Italian prints adorn the walls, with a few cool, creative touches sprinkled throughout - like a "polka dot" series of mirrors in the dining room. All of this, however, pales in comparison to the staff. Everyone at Geoffrey's is warm, friendly, and attentive. You feel so welcome by them, it almost doesn't feel like service, but rather like you are a guest in their home. It makes you want to go back every night. At one point, I dropped my (paper) napkin on the ground and, as I reached down for it, our waiter scurried over and took it from me and then insisted on getting me a new one. That's more impressive than what you might experience in some of the city's four star establishments.

Having said that the food was only ok, it's worth clarifying that everything I've eaten there in my two visits has been tasty, well-prepared, and well-presented, if not overly inventive or, what I might call, excellent. The menu is certainly punctuated by a few terrific options. On my most recent visit, I started with a blueberry martini with a squeeze of lemon. They make the blueberry vodka on-site and it was like a big taste of summer in the middle of the snow and ice. We were out to dinner with a couple we didn't know especially well, so we talked a lot before even touching the menu. The waiter was patient and gracious as he checked in a few times to see if we were ready. We finally settled on an appetizer of the grilled sausage, which is homemade by Tony's Market, the little shop just next door to Geoffrey's. The sausage was full of good fennel and anise flavor, and served with a dollop of whole grain mustard and carmelized onions.

Both guys ordered the ribeye steak from the list of specials, which was served with sides of mashed potatoes and grilled zucchini. Again, not terribly inventive, but kudos to the server for offering suggestions on how to have it prepared - both looked perfectly cooked. Hands-down, the best looking entree was a ginormous bacon-cheddar burger served with homemade potato chips. Based on the mere crumbs that were left on the plate at the end of the meal, I would guess that it tasted as good a it looked. I ordered the seven-vegetable couscous "stew." Couscous is my favorite starch and I generally love middle eastern food, so this seemed like a good bet. The stew's broth was mildly-spiced, with a hint of saffron that gave it a great color, but the vegetables were largely indistinguishable. One of the almost tasted a little pickled, which was not a good pairing for the dish. The couscous was fluffy and well-made and was a great way to soak up some of the broth.

I tried to be intentionally good in ordering the vegetarian dinner, in that I knew before we even walked in the door, that I would be ordering a giant slab of cake for dinner. Last time we were at Geoffrey's we have Devil's Food cake with buttercream icing. I'd been dreaming of it ever since. I hogged nearly the whole piece for myself, giving Paul only the most cursory of bites. As I remembered, the icing was to die for - sweet, thick, and smooth. The cake was a little on the dry, crumbly side from having been refrigerated, but I was willing to forgive it for its heavenly topping.

I'd give Geoffrey's Cafe, at 4257 Washington Street in Roslindale, a B. If making your way in the world today takes everything you've got, head to Geoffrey's. Order a burger and bask in the warmth of the servers doting on you. Oh, and tell Sam I sent you.

Spoiled...

You know how when you have a big-ish task at hand, it can sometimes completely paralyze you? That is the current state of my blog. I have to admit, I've been rather spoiled lately in that I've had three terrific meals in the past two+ weeks. However, the mere idea of writing about each experience has stunned me into complete inaction, leaving my poor blog unattended-to and unloved. In an effort to correct this, but also make it manageable, I am going to write just a brief review on each meal.

New Year's resolution #257: Keep up with blog.

Now that that's out of the way, on to the (mini) reviews...

My first meal was a business dinner at The Independent in Union Square in Somerville. Union Square is one of those cool areas in Boston that is very up and coming, with lots of unique shops and some fabulous food (at some point, I will dedicate a whole blog to one of my food obsessions in the city: TaQueria La Mexicana). Even amongst this fabulous little area of Somerville, The Independent is a standout. I've eaten there a handful of times over the years and the upscale bistro-pub style offerings never fail to delight. One summer night I had a tri-colored beet salad there that I still think about on a regular basis (this is what foodies do... reminisce about courses that were inspired... sad, but true). The Independent is clearly split into two - the bar and the restaurant, though you can get the full menu in either area. I usually opt for the bar, which is small, but cozy and the bartenders tend to be attentive and friendly (and cute[!]... oops, did that slip out?). However, since I was there recently for a semi-serious professional chat, we opted for the quiet restaurant area, which was perfectly serviceable, if lacking the better character of the bar.

Skipping an appetizer, we instead enjoyed a nice Pinot Noir from California and some robust Tuscan bread with spiced olive oil before our entrees arrived. My main entree was risotto (oh, how I love risotto....) punctuated with porcini mushrooms and pearl onions. Though there were too many onions in the dish, it was warm and filling and lovely on a cool winter night. The real star of the night, however, was the upside down pineapple cake with a buttery, perfect crumb cake and a drizzle of dulce de leche. Oh my.

I'd give The Independent, at 75 Union Square in Somerville, an A-. Head for the bar and flirt shamelessly with the bartender. And if beets are on the menu, get them - you won't be sorry.

About a week following my meal at The Independent, I had the fortune to dine at another small neighborhood star - though clear across town. Last Friday night, Paul and I headed to the Ashmont Grill in Dorchester for a friend's birthday. This was a second annual gathering at the Ashmont for this particular event, and it was terrific both times. The Ashmont, started by chef Chris Douglass (of Icarus fame), is a beautiful place that predominantly features new American classics. The restaurant is a real symbol of some of what is happening in Dorchester, including the gentrification of many neighborhoods and running a green business, while staying true to cultural roots of the area by exclusively hiring locals for both the kitchen and wait staff. [Sidebar: When Paul and I were house hunting, I was a big advocate of moving to Dot. Without fail, every time I brought it up, there would be a murder in the area within days, leading Paul to totally veto the idea. Whenever we eat at the Ashmont, I am sorry that I wasn't able to be more persuasive!]

If you've ever tried to get to Dorchester for 6 p.m. on a Friday night, you'll understand fully why my first order of business when arriving was to request a cocktail. Following the birthday girl's lead, I had my first of two tangy pomegranate margaritas - yum! Our large party shared apps that included steamed mussels (tasty, though unoriginal), a cheese plate with a delicious, crumbly Tomme de Levezou, and the (fabulously-named) Train Wreck fries with melted jack cheese, bacon, jalapenos, sour cream, scallions (do I really even need to comment?). For a main course, I ordered the beer-braised beef brisket with sauteed spinach and garlic mashed potatoes - good, but nothing particularly remarkable. However, being with a large, kind group of fellow foodies, much sharing ensued... showing that the overall competence of the Ashmont Grill to be excellent. Hands down, the best thing I sampled was the pork chop sourced from a New England cooperative. Last time I dined at there, I had a similarly delicious course that featured Niman Ranch pork - it seems to be what the Ashmont does best. We all shared just a bite of toffee bread pudding for dessert - leaving me yearning for more and ensuring a return visit.

I'd give the Ashmont Grill, at 555 Talbot Avenue in Dorchester, a B+. Order the pork with a side of the baked macaroni and cheese and fantasize that home cooking was really this good in your own house growing up.

Last but not least, I returned earlier this week to L'Espalier for Cheese Tuesday... those that read this blog with any frequency will remember how I waxed lovingly over my experience at Wine Monday this Fall. Cheese Tuesday follows an identical format to Wine Monday with the only exception being an extended cheese course (seven samples, as opposed to three). Having had such a terrific experience at Wine Monday, I entered L'Espalier with confidence and excitement for a great night - and it lived up again. For this meal, my friend that is a devotee of these nights had organized a large group of us, several of whom were regulars - which helped, because Cheese Tuesday includes activities. We were encouraged to write "cheese sayings" on a huge sheet of poster board with oversized magic markers and, at the end of the night, we all sang a version of Pink Floyd's The Wall set to cheese lyrics while the staff pulled out electric guitars and punk wigs. Seriously, people, L'Espalier is considered to be the most refined restaurant in the city. How could you not love this?

Oh yeah... and there was food! Good food, naturally. On the whole, I enjoyed the courses at Wine Monday a bit more, but the execution of the Cheese Tuesday meal was still exceptional. We started with grilled, smoked quail with beets and lemon creme fraiche. The quail was tricky to eat with its small bones, but the smokey-tart balance on the meat with the lemon cream was well-done and nicely paired with the bright flavor of a Pomelo Sauvignon Blanc. That was followed by a roasted Scottish salmon with rutabaga risotto, paired with a fresh, easy-to-drink J. Wilkes Pinot Blanc. This was the only course that was a little lacking in how underdone the fish was, though the earthy, warm risotto was wonderful. The third course of Shepherd's Pie was paired with a Montinore Pinot Noir from Willamette Valley in Oregon (a region I am partial to after a visit there in 2005). The Shepherd's Pie with large chunks of braised beef, fresh peas, a pillowy crust of potatoes, topped with sprinkle of slab bacon was outstanding.

And the cheese... if you love cheese, you must, must, must make it to one of these dinners in the New Year. It is glorious. The seven cheeses were spectacular and, like the wine, the restaurant cheese director described each of them and gave a little detail about their provenance as we sampled them. Since the menu I brought home doesn't give tremendous detail on the source of each cheese, I am not going to list them all. Just know this: some of them were so good, I did a little "cheese dance" in my seat. I can not wait to go back.

I'd give Cheese Tuesday at L'Espalier at 30 Gloucester Street in the Back Bay, an A. Though I found that a few of the courses did not live up to the perfection of my meal at Wine Monday, the cheese is so incredible, you'd still give it an A even if they served up dirt and worms for the earlier part of the meal. God bless lactose tolerance.

O Christmas Apps...

It's officially December. A full month of cocktail parties - drinking too much, eating too much, kissing the cheeks of people you barely know. How many do you count on your calendar? I have four at the moment, with the possibility of a few more... a friend from work has nine. NINE! Including one he plans to host himself. To help him get through the season as unscathed as humanly possible, I offered to "serve up" (pun fully intended) a list of a few of my favorite party appetizers.

I love to cook, but I tend to be a little lazy about it, so virtually all of these are simple, quick to prepare, and include ingredients that are easy to find. Plus, they can all be prepared in advance - an absolute requirement for me whenever I am entertaining. You'll also see some patterns in what I like to eat, including ethnic foods, seafood, healthy & organic food (when possible), and savory balance in everything - even the sweets.

Thai Crab Cakes with Cilantro Peanut Sauce
These are a really cool take on a classic. Plus, they sound and look way more complicated than they are to prepare - the bright flavors are what will fake out your guests. If I can Betty Crocker-out on you for a second: I actually won a potluck award with this recipe one time.

Spiced Walnuts
This recipe is very close to one that my mom makes every holiday season, so it's a sentimental favorite for me. Everyone loves these... they'll be the first thing gone, I promise.

Spinach-Artichoke Dip
I made this for the first time for Thanksgiving and it was really yummy - it's a good replica of what you might order in a restaurant. My sister-in-law ate the leftovers for breakfast the next morning. I served it with tortilla chips. An added bonus: it travels well.

Camarones con Hierbas y Citricos (Citrus-Herb Shrimp)
This is a Latin recipe that is really more intended for the summer, but it's so good, I think it would be a success any time of year. Again, a great twist on the traditional shrimp cocktail. To make this even easier, buy the prepared shrimp at the grocery store and follow the recipe from there - the flavor will be just as good.

Crostini with Gorgonzola, Caramelized Onions, and Fig Jam
This is the only thing on this list that is a little "fussy" and labor-intensive, but it's well worth it. The blend of earthy flavors in this is spectacular. The fig jam might be a little hard to find - try a gourmet shop, Trader Joe's, or Whole Foods. Try to assemble these no more than about an hour before serving them - you can quickly broil them if you want them to be hot.

Pretzel Turtles
Ok, I have to admit that I haven't made this yet... but I am going to for my next function this coming week. There is a candy on the market called Take 5 which is a perfect sweet-salty balance and these sound like a great homemade version! The recipe makes fifty, but I'm going to seriously double it. Who doesn't want to eat these?

If just reading this makes you want to hide under a pile of wrapping paper, rather than prepare dishes for a slew of parties, go for the bottle a wine - it's sure to be a hit and a heck of a lot less work! I find that the following are always crowd-pleasers:

Ravenswood Zinfandel
Argyle Pinot Noir
Oyster Bay Sauvignon Blanc
Kris Pinot Grigio

Have a happy, well-fed, tasty holiday season! 2008 will be here before we know it...