Make me a dinner I can't refuse...

I love the North End, but I almost never go. It just seems like there are too many obstacles... it's absolutely no where near where I live, parking is awful, and the restaurants (while fabulous) are more concerned with maintaining the lifestyle of their waitstaff than serving their patrons - which, in fairness, is all very Italian of them. However, when you have an out-of-town guest, the North End is a no brainer - great food in a scenic old-school Boston neighborhood. So, when my dad and brother were coming in for a brief visit, I knew they'd enjoy a trip to Boston's Little Italy.

My brother's plane was due to arrive around 8:30 p.m. on a Wednesday night and I had in mind that we'd head right to the restaurant and get there around nine... would any place in the North End be serving dinner that late during the week? I called my two favorites, Giacomo's and Pomodoro, only to be told by both that they close sharply at 10 p.m. That certainly didn't seem like enough time for a leisurely dinner of catching up with my family.

Seeking a place that was open until eleven, I landed on Strega. Now, I have to admit that I had my reservations about this... I am a fairly regular watcher of the Phantom Gourmet and Strega frequently advertises on the program. If you've seen the ad with the owner, Nick Varano, all chummy with Vincent Pastore from the Sopranos, you'll instantly know the one I mean. It's kinda... creepy. Varano is this huge Italian guy who comes across like he's much more interested in photo ops with celebrities than whether or not his kitchen is turning out anything edible. So, needless to say, my expectations of Strega were limited. But, they were open on the late side and sometimes you need to make decisions on factors other than the food - sigh.

When we arrive at Strega, the decor and service do nothing to improve what I anticipate from the restaurant. With no host at the door, we are vaguely waived towards a table up the back which is free. Despite this slight affront, I feel lucky to get right in - even at the late-ish hour, the restaurant is still packed. The decor is - frankly - a complete fright. It seems to have a split personality between wanting to be hip and modern (a blinding wall of yellow acrylic panels and television sets line the back wall) and wanting to be delicately retro (with art nouveau-style figures painted on the walls). The tables are dinged up and the vinyl banquets are worn. Service remains spotty through the night, though the - mostly native Italian - staff is warm and funny, which helps to make up for long absences between courses.

The first dish out gives me a clue that Strega might offer more than just a chance for Varano to stroke his own ego. We've ordered the fresh bocconcini mozzarella wrapped in prosciutto on a bed of marinated red peppers. The simplicity of the dish, paired with the freshness and quality of the ingredients is spectacular. We also shared an order of the marinated grilled calamari over baby arugula. The calamari was tasty, but it was served in long, thick strips - making it a little chewy and tough. The lightly dressed greens made for a good pairing for the density of the squid.

For my entree, I selected the lobster and crab-stuffed ravioli in a pink sauce. I don't frequently order this dish, as I often find the lack of any discernible shellfish to be a disappointment. Not at Strega. The delicate pasta is jammed with lobster and crab and the sauce is creamy and mild, served with plenty of Italian bread to sop up every ounce. My dining companions ordered the cheese ravioli, veal parmesan, and the chicken alla romana. Based on the appreciative grunts and clean plates at the end of the meal, I'd say everyone enjoyed the dinner greatly. With the time growing later and bellies full of pasta and cheese, we opted to skip dessert and coffees and just enjoyed the remains of our wine.

Interestingly, at the end of the evening, the host finally appears to check on how we liked our meal... he could be a character straight out of a mobster movie at well over six feet tall and two hundred pounds, with a sizable tattoo on his neck. Having chosen to go to the North End to show our guests a little flavor of Boston, it's a fitting end to our night.

I'd give Strega, at 379 Hanover Street in the North End, a B+. Do your best to ignore the mobster movies flickering from the wall of TVs and focus on enjoying some terrific Italian fare. It's good enough to serve to celebrities.