Food: Ten, Looks: Three

Val might have looked like the dumb blonde in A Chorus Line, but she knew a thing or two about the importance of physical attributes. Restaurants may not exactly have "tits and ass," but for a truly great experience, they still need to show a pretty face. There's a reason that Zagat's measures restaurants on four categories and one of them is decor.

The importance of atmosphere was highlighted for me by two dining experiences that I had this week. Ok, way to state the obvious, right? Of course, atmosphere is important. But what really struck me is how it influenced my opinion of the food.

First I met up with some girlfriends at Beehive in the South End. I'd been dying to go to Beehive, so I was very excited when it was suggested for our get together. Despite battling epic traffic and the horror that is parking in that neighborhood, when I finally came through the doors at Beehive, all was forgotten. The restaurant is located in what could be super awkward space within the Boston Center for the Arts. There's a sort of L-shaped dining room upstairs, one big cavernous dining room downstairs with a small stage at one end (Beehive is considered one of the best places in town to see new music acts), and an adjacent bar area which is sort of up on a platform. It could feel really disjointed, but the overall eclectic decor ties it all together in a fun, warm way. The upstairs dining room and bar have a sort of French brasserie feel with dark woods and light walls, while the larger dining room is old school cabaret - straight out of the film Moulin Rouge. Beehive is almost painfully hip and each patron that walks in is more chic than the last.

Matching the decor seamlessly is the cocktail menu... retro and vaguely French-inspired. I was drawn the champagne cocktails and I was a bit disappointed that they were unable to make the Violette, which sounded unique and delicious. I settled for La Vie en Rose, which was sparkling wine with a shot of lychee-infused cognac. It was superb. We decided to share a few appetizers, including mixed olives dusted with parmesan, house frites with sage and sea salt, and marinated Shy Brothers' goat cheese. I was particularly excited about the cheese, as I'd read about the Shy Brothers' Farm (two sets of twin brothers who make artisanal cheese as the third generation on a working farm... interesting, right?). The cheese itself was mild, but unremarkable, but beautifully served in a crock with a drizzle of olive oil and herbs.

For my entree I had the oven roasted chicken with brioche stuffing. I rarely order chicken when dining out, but the stuffing sounded terrific - and it was. It was the highlighted of the meal - sweet, moist, and herb-y. The chicken itself was nicely cooked, with a light, crisp skin - and the portion was huge. I didn't even come close to finishing it. My girlfriends ordered the flatbread pizza, the baked polenta, and the gyro salad (which looked both gorgeous and delicious!). I was also asked to specifically point out that one friend really enjoyed the polenta (served with ricotta and ratatouille).

Overall, the food was good, but nothing to write home about. But here's where the atmosphere thing comes in... part of the reason that I wasn't overwhelmed by the food, was that is was pretty simple - which in a way was perfect, in that it didn't compete with the rich decor. Despite food that was only ok, I am still eager to go back! It was such an intriguing place and I would love to hear some of the music (which we missed). Goes to show, a pretty face can make quite the impression.

Later in the week, I found myself at Stix Restaurant, again with some friends. I'd heard of Stix, but I didn't know much about it. I picked it for a meeting spot because it had a convenient location near both parking and the T, as well as a varied menu for fairly reasonable prices - also, from the photos on the website, it looked very chic and modern. It seemed like a good bet for a group.

As soon as I arrived, I was immediately struck by how small the restaurant was - only 20 or so tables in a long narrow space. And, more importantly, how plain it was. Instead of cool, minimalist, it was more boring, generic - light toned woods, black a-lined seating, and simple cylinder pendant lighting. There was nothing particularly offense about the place, but there was also absolutely nothing interesting or original. It's also worth noting that there were several huge flatscreen TVs around the restaurant, including one right behind our table, which was both an odd fit for the decor, as well as a major distraction.

The menu at Stix is broken into four main parts - the signature Stix dishes, small plates, full entrees, and side dishes. As a group we decide to go for all small plates and dine tapas-style. The waitress was very helpful in navigating the menu and offering some suggestions. We ordered an ample selection of the Stix plates - which are meats or fish cooked on an infused wooden skewer (or "sticks," get it?), and a few small plates and side dishes to round things out.

A few of the highlights included scallops on a ginger-mango skewer seared in orange oil and
sesame, maple salmon on a "mexican fiesta" skewer, and the mushroom ragu side. A definite lowlight of the meal was dessert - warm chocolate fondant, served with chocolate sorbet and a mini strawberry milk shake. The sorbet and shake were tasteless and the fondant was dry. Overall, the food was very good and the infused skewers - while a little trendy, with the potential for hokey - made for full-bodied, creative dishes. Like Beehive, the complexity of the food's flavors, matched with equally intense dipping sauces, might have been too much without the simplicity of the restaurant's look and feel.

Now here's the interesting contrast to Beehive, while the food at Stix was better - the experience will be forgettable, in large part because of the atmosphere. You can get good food at so many Boston establishments these days, a restaurant really needs to go above and beyond to secure a return visit. Stix did not. And I haven't even mentioned the odd way the staff literally started to "pack up" the tables (they fold into the wall) at about 10 p.m., making us feel like we were dragging things out too long and rushing us through dessert. Apparently Stix turns into a lounge/club at that hour. Who knew.

I'd give Beehive at 541 Tremont Street in the South End a B for food and an A for atmosphere. Make a late reservation for the cabaret area so you can catch a local act over a champagne cocktail. Order something simple and soak up your surroundings.

I'd give Stix Restaurant at 35 Stanhope Street in Boston a B+ for food and a C for atmosphere. Go early, so as not to accidentally get folded into the wall when the electronica starts to pound over the sound system. Stick with the Stix and you'll enjoy every bite.