I Heart Winter.

That's a big, fat lie. I don't heart winter at all. I count the days down until it's over. And here we are... January. Sigh. There's the obvious weather issue, of course. This native San Diegan never quite got the hang of the cold. Then there's the driving. I love it when my brakes don't work. Mmm, and how about all the coughing and hacking in your office - isn't that part great? And, above all? There is no baseball. Don't get me wrong, I like the Pats well enough (16 and 0, baby) and I am starting to really get into the Celtics. But, let's face facts - they're no Red Sox. I just got my tickets for a Spring Training game in March and the schedule for our season package was just published... it's got me dreaming of the green grass at Fenway, fantasizing about what our bullpen might look like with Santana in the mix (and, apparently, I'm not the only one...), and obsessing about their every move with friends, colleagues, strangers on the street, and basically anyone who breathes oxygen in the city of Boston.

Clearly, when totally starved of sunlight and ballplayers, there is only one way to get through this season. Eating. Ideally, eating well. That need for warm, wonderful, anti-winter cuisine has led me directly to Delfino Restaurant twice in two weeks. I blogged briefly about Delfino's in my round-up of Roslindale restaurants. It's a fabulous place. I just also wish it was one of our little Rozzie secrets. Not so much. The average wait for a table at Delfino's is ninety minutes and, no, they don't take reservations. It's worth the wait... and if you cozy up to the host, he's usually willing to call your cell phone when your table is ready if you go for a walk while you wait. Another good option is to head around the corner for a drink at Birch Street Bistro, where they make great seasonal cocktails.

Delfino's has a snug dining room with a partially exposed kitchen (late night you can usually catch the affable host donning a t-shirt and cooking up meals for the staff). The walls are upholstered with a simple vine-patterned tapestry which is unusual and pretty enough that you forgive the restaurant the cheesy fresco on the upper portion of the wall. In addition to the host, the wait staff is generally attentive and very sweet (both nights we were treated to cute, young Italian guys with thick accents). They have a good mastery of the menu and are not afraid to make recommendations.

Delfino's wait staff enjoying a late night dinner.
The restaurant has a pretty traditional Italian menu and all of standard menu items are excellent. The pappardelle bolognese and the open face lobster ravioli are particularly good. I would also give kudos to the antipasto platter - we ordered it on both visits. It has some of standard items, like prosciutto, olives, and roasted red peppers, but also some more unusual offerings like goat cheese, white bean spread, and an eggplant tapenade. One night that we were there, we also ordered the fried calamari appetizer. The small rings of calamari were tender and fresh and served on a huge bed of arugula and other mixed greens with a champagne vinaigrette. Aside from the unnecessary and distracting fried potato strings sprinkled on top, the dish was superb.

I don't tend to order specials a lot. I know that I should. It would be the true foodie thing to do. They are sure to have the freshest ingredients and the most love - since it's something the chef actually wants to be making. So I am not sure what possessed me to order the special on the first of our two trips to Delfino's, but it just sounded so darn tasty. Let's just say, I made the right choice - my fellow diners looked longingly at my meal all night long. The first night, the special was slow-cooked beef short ribs served over polenta with a demiglace sauce and a side of grilled asparagus. I love polenta and Delfino's was simple and unadorned with any notable spices or herbs, but it was soft and creamy and delicious - especially as it absorbed the sauce. The short ribs were incredible, with meat that literally fell off the bone and a deep savory flavor.

Still swimming in my delicious memory of the short ribs, I was especially attentive to the list of specials on our second visit to the restaurant. Again, I was the only one that ordered one and, again, I was the source of much envy at the table. I selected the veal osso buco served on a bed of saffron risotto (do I really have to go over my feelings for risotto again?) with some mixed roasted root vegetables. While this dish did not appeal to me quite as much as the short ribs, it was still outstanding. The veal was spectacularly tender and came with a tiny sterling spoon to scoop out the marrow from the center bone. The risotto, while not terribly flavorful, was well prepared and a good base for the osso buco.

As much as I have tried, I've never actually made it to a dessert course at Delfino's. The portions are enough for three meals and even when you take home a huge pile of leftovers, you are stuffed to the gills. So, sadly, I can't comment on this aspect of the restaurant - but, based on my general experiences, I would guess that they can execute some terrific Italian treats.

I would give Delfino Restaurant at 754 South Street in Roslindale an A-. Next time you need a break from the cold, head to Rozzie and order a big, meaty dish from the list of specials. Your full belly will keep you warm all the way home.