Grilled Steak + X = Excellence

I was always a pretty good student. With that said, in my entire academic career, I only ever received one A+ on my report card (it was in Algebra... is that too nerdy, or what?). Sure, I probably got a half dozen A+s on tests or papers over the years, but only once on the overall grade.

When I started this blog a few weeks ago, my choice of evaluation method for restaurants was totally random. I walked out of B&G Oysters feeling like it was basically a B+ experience, so I used that rating in my first posting and I've basically just stuck with it. However, I now find myself in a dilemma. What defines an A+ restaurant? Could there be such an establishment? Can you make that assessment in one visit? How do you measure completely abstract aspects of a restaurant experience, such as food, selection, service, atmosphere? This is no 2X + 4 = 8, solve for X. This is much tougher, much more subjective, much more art than science.

Even as I write this, I remain uncertain of how to score Grill 23 & Bar. I had the enormous pleasure of dining there on Friday night and it will not be a meal that I soon forget. Grill 23 was definitely on my "wish list." It is consistently rated the best steakhouse in Boston, so it seemed like the perfect choice for my husband's birthday. This man is a slave to his grill. He likes a good piece of charred meat. So I knew he would love it, however, I certainly didn't expect to be so overwhelmed. I was. It was incredible.

When we arrive, I am surprised by the size of the place - it's huge. The first floor must have nearly 100 tables. Paul notices too, though his feedback is, "it's loud." I agree, but it doesn't bother me; I love a place with a bit of a bustle and Grill 23 definitely has it. It also has the dark wood, black & white tile floor decor of a true, traditional steakhouse, which is just what you what it to look like. Due to a happy accident of having a late reservation (seriously, who can make it to dinner at seven on a Friday?! I've barely left work by then.), we are escorted to a room on the second floor with a clubby, bookish feel. It's much quieter and Paul is pleased. Good; it's his birthday after all.

The servers are quick to the table and knowledgeable, but not pushy. Just what I am looking for in a good waiter or waitress. I feel a little sorry for them having to wear those ridiculous ivory-colored wait "coats" that look like straitjackets. Oh well, I guess it's all part of the tradition. I also need to take a second to acknowledge that they asked for permission before removing anything from the table, from my nearly-finished gin and tonic to the bread basket. Also a huge plus for me. Who hasn't had the last nibble of their meal scooped up by an overly aggressive waiter, leaving you with your mouth hanging open and fork poised mid-air. Oh, how I hate that!

The menu is simple, but absolutely full of things I would like to eat! I am usually fairly decisive when I see the menu selection, but choosing at Grill 23 takes me a bit of consideration. I finally settle on a fois gras appetizer and the dry-aged New York strip steak, with a side of buttered asparagus. Paul goes for traditional (read: boring) shrimp cocktail, filet mignon, and mashed potatoes. While we wait for our meals, we nibble on the bread, which is a standout, as far as bread can be a standout. The foccacia, baked with Tuscan veggies like sun-dried tomatoes and slices of portabello mushroom, as well as the cracker-like flatbread, dotted with red pepper flakes, are especially good.

Our appetizers arrive relatively quickly and the are nothing short of beautiful. The shrimp are jumbo and plated artfully on a bed of crushed ice. The fois gras is pure art. Now, before you get all PETA on me, let me just say, I KNOW. Fois gras is so cruel it is actually outlawed in some countries. But it is just so delicious, you must eat it at least once in your life. It's an experience. Mine is seared to caramelized perfection and served stacked on two small herbed crepes stuffed with a sweet-spicy onion chutney with a drizzle of demi-glace on the plate. It is one of the finest courses I've ever eaten.

With our apps, we've moved on to a bottle of Lazy River Pinot Noir from the Willamette Valley just outside of Portland, Oregon. It's a wine that Paul and I tasted at the vineyard about two years ago when we toured the region. The Pinot Noir from that area is spectacular and ours was a great pairing with the fois gras, as well as the steaks. The wine list at Grill 23, as you might expect, is an absolute tome. The priciest bottle that I see is $3,200. Holy Crap. Paul will have to wait till next year for that one.

When the steaks arrive, I can see and smell that they are perfect before even tasting them. And they are. Seared just enough on the outside to give them a tasty, crunchy crust, while still pink and tender on the interior. They are topped with a butter sauce that is outstanding, but totally indecipherable. My foodie curiosity has been raised! What is that mystical combination? The waitress later reveals that it includes Worcestershire sauce, hot sauce, garlic salt, amongst "other" ingredients. I would have never sorted that out on my own. The thin asparagus has a simple drizzle of butter with some Parmesan shavings and cracked black pepper. I am astounded at how they have prepared it with just the right tender-crisp consistency - I can barely achieve that at home when cooking for just me and Paul, much less thousands of diners a night. Sadly, Paul's mashed potatoes are a total disappointment. They've formed a gummy film from sitting out too long and lack any punch of flavor.

We polish the meal off with a chocolate mousse cake, per Mr. Chocoholic's choice. Again, his birthday. The cake is delicious and comes in a huge portion. The cake layers are moist (something all restaurants struggle with) and the mousse is dense, all covered with a rich, dark ganache. What especially impresses me is the quality of this finish. Many, many places serve fine food only fail short on the dessert course. It seems to me that they invest so much in a chef de cuisine, the pastry chef just plays second fiddle. This is not the case at Grill 23.

Before I wrap up this post and get to that grade (I'm not procrastinating, I swear!), I feel that I need to cover price. This was an incredible meal. It was also the second most expensive that we've ever had in Boston. The Boston Globe Magazine just wrote a fascinating article about the increasing cost of high-end meals in Boston. The article focuses much of its critique on the "$40 steak" and the marketing propaganda that restaurants serve up around terms like "dry-aged" and "hand-picked," both of which are used on the Grill 23 menu. I'm not sure where I stand on this debate, though I am certainly a believer that all good meals start with quality ingredients. However, I didn't have a single issue with what we paid at Grill 23, though it had nothing to do with the provenance of the meat. The execution of the meal was exquisite and, ultimately, made it one of the best I've ever had.

But was it an A+? I'd have to say no. When you are gauging a meal like this, frankly, every detail matters. Which ones didn't quite get it the "+"? The potatoes. Really, steak and potatoes are a classic combination - who doesn't order the mashed potatoes? They needed to kick a** to match the steaks. They didn't. Also, I booked this reservation through OpenTable. In my booking, I sent a note to the maitre'd that it was Paul's birthday. Despite this, there was no special fanfare for him during dinner, leaving me to believe he wasn't really paying attention to the information provided by the site. Lastly, the next day, I received an e-mail from OpenTable noting that I seemed to have "missed my reservation" because I didn't check in and, therefore, risked losing my "points." I have no idea what OpenTable points are and I could care less about losing them, but I was a little ticked all of the same. Was I now somehow blackmarked on the site? If Grill 23 is going to allow you to book through OpenTable, they need to close the loop with them. Otherwise, the service seems lacking.

I'd give Grill 23 & Bar at 161 Berkeley Street in Boston an A. Just do it. Empty your checking account and GO.